I watched a sensational documentary about synthetic diamonds on Netflix. But is it truly sensational…? The documentary’s authors prophesy the collapse of the diamond industry, supposedly resulting from natural diamonds being displaced from the market by their synthetic counterparts.
“A diamond has never been a fundamentally real thing. A diamond has always been a lie on every level. That’s why a synthetic diamond is a lie about a lie” – thus Aji Raden, jewelry designer, intensifies the documentary’s atmosphere.
But doesn’t luxury consist precisely in purchasing illusion, desirable objects, at prices often multiplying their actual value many times over, to distinguish oneself from others? Will purchasing a synthetic diamond provide the same experience as acquiring a natural diamond? It’s somewhat like a Chanel handbag – will even its most faithful copy satisfy us if we remain conscious it’s not an original?
Are synthetic diamonds a threat?
They are, but exclusively when offered as natural by sellers possessing either malicious intent or insufficient knowledge and experience to verify their origin. Operating in the market for over 20 years, I’ve repeatedly encountered jewelry pieces where synthetic diamonds were presented as natural. Unfortunately, many appraisers still trivialize this problem and either don’t bother or lack appropriate equipment to examine pieces in this regard.
A synthetic stone is one produced in a laboratory but possesses practically all the chemical, optical, and physical properties of its natural mineral counterpart, making it difficult to distinguish from a natural stone. Synthetic stones have been produced since the 19th century. Synthetic rubies, sapphires, and emeralds have been widely available in the market for many years, but has this impacted declining sales or diminished interest in their natural counterparts? Quite the contrary: prices of natural, quality stones have been breaking records for years.
Aji Raden proposes in the documentary that since cultured pearls became available in the market, no one even notices their natural counterparts. Nothing could be further from truth. Beautiful necklaces of natural (non-cultured) pearls achieve astronomical sums at auctions, often measured in hundreds or even millions of euros.
Synthetic diamonds represent a relatively new product in the jewelry industry and are only now establishing their market position—similarly to rubies or sapphires once did. For now—as often occurs with novelties—they’re accompanied by an aura of sensation.
Secure diamond acquisition
It is not true that natural diamonds cannot be distinguished from their synthetic counterparts. Using appropriate equipment, such as a Raman spectrometer, one can determine whether a stone is of natural or laboratory origin. One may also consider submitting the diamond for certification to one of the world’s renowned laboratories such as GIA, HRD, or SSEF.
It’s crucial to purchase diamonds or diamond jewelry from a trusted seller possessing appropriate knowledge and equipment. This will prevent costly errors and ensure appreciation of acquired pieces in the future.
It’s also worthwhile to consider antique jewelry, where diamonds often possess handcrafted, less precise cuts. Personally, I believe there exists certain magic in this, and I prefer these stones to contemporarily cut ones. Naturally, even in this case, one should consult an expert when purchasing.
